Aizawa is a room that disappears. Charcoal walls, a dark-wood counter, warm light pooling on bamboo placemats — twelve seats facing the chef, and nothing else to look at.

The course is the whole evening: the AIZAWA COURSE at ¥870,000 — two appetizers, a five-kind sashimi moriawase, chawanmushi, a grilled dish, the day's special, a closing soup. Nigiri and maki come at the counter, priced as they're served.

The 鮨文 art on the wall shows a shrimp brushed in vermillion — the color of the seal, the color of akami. Fish flown from Japan, cut by hand, served across twelve bamboo mats.