Siam is Thailand's old name — it recalls the Land of Smiles, the boats on the Chao Phraya, and street carts fragrant with lemongrass, chilli and lime. Tiệm Ăn Siam borrows that name for a small shophouse in Saigon.

The shop is small and tidy: one shophouse room, a few tables, a kitchen on the flame from 6:30AM. Guests don't come looking for a showy restaurant — they come for a Thai meal done right, then head on.

Every day the shop opens early and closes at 11PM. Neighbours drop by for breakfast, visitors from across town for dinner — and Cao Thang street is always busy.