The storefront is a Thai-style wooden gable with a glowing golden elephant and “Since 2012” — the house's greeting for over a decade on Cao Thang street, District 3.

Inside, the kitchen cooks morning-market style: tamarind-and-lime sour, chili heat, fish-sauce salt, palm-sugar sweet — four flavors balanced in every pad Thai, tom yum and som tam.

The dining room is a market stall tidied up: rattan pendants, blue-and-white tile, wooden tables and framed Thai dishes. After eating, look up at the golden elephant on the wall.