On Tran Cao Van, La Phong is the classic Japanese house: wooden door, noren curtain, a long counter with chefs behind it. No noise, no rush — guests come to eat, and to be quiet.

Sashimi is the soul of the house — the misted sashimi boat is the familiar image, salmon the signature. At lunch the tempo quickens with bento and udon sets from 185,000đ.

In the evening La Phong slows down: counter diners watch the chefs slice fish, order another sea urchin. This is a Japanese house to return to — every time like the first, only more familiar.