145/6 Nguyen Thien Thuat, District 3 — a small alley that Saigon food lovers still seek out every afternoon. The HU TIEU sign weathered by time, the green-and-white striped awning, the stainless cart parked right at the door.

The shop does exactly one thing: beef-ball hu tieu. Clear broth, soft or chewy hu tieu noodles, egg noodles if you like — soup or dry. The springy beef balls are what people talk about most.

Open 3 PM to 11 PM — the alley's evening shift. Stainless tables, red chopsticks, baskets of greens, lime and chili on the table; regulars order one bowl, finish, and go — that simple.